its a small 33cc chinese sit down mo-ped, i mix it 20-1 and i am well aware how to break it in properly, i also replaced all the bolts with 8 grade and lock washers, the only thing i have ever seen go wrong with these mopeds is the motor mounts and bolts breaking, so if i mix it right and dont over rev it, and take it easy how long will the little 2 stroker run? its the same engine as a weed trimer and our weed trimer has been runing for 10+ years now, also the gearbox? it seems solid and i plan to change the transmition fluid every 3 months or so(the web site recomends every year) its this exact scooter here, http://www.made-in-china.com/image/2f0j00svyQkiLHhEbPM/Gas-Scooter-JX-GS001-.jpg
im 230lbs and its rated for 220lbs max but still pulls me around, so what is there to go wrong with it? i would think not to much, maybe flat tires or worn out chain, air filters and transmition fluid, the tranny gears could ware out and so could the clutch, anyways how long should it run? thanks guys,Lifespan of a 33cc scooter?
I am surprised a moped has a clutch to burn up unless it centrifugal.
2 strokers run for a long time as long as you mix it right every time. The plugs get fouled. The don't like to run at lower RPMs......2 strokes like to run at higher RPM's, but on a 33cc bike I can't imagine going must lower than redline.
Your question sounds more like a testimonial or something. If you like it then keep on ridin it. It's probably a lot of fun.Lifespan of a 33cc scooter?
You seem to be knowledgable about this, but I have to say a 33cc is usually only good for about one riding season, mostly due to it's tiny engine. They just wear out. If you want to keep it running longer, try a more robust mix--say 15/1. Good luck!
Thursday, June 2, 2011
My VERY strange car....?
Can someone shed some light as to what I should think about my car? I檒l tell you all about it?It檚 quite a story to tell!
Stats:
Year: 1993
Make: Toyota
Model: Camry DX
Color: Hunter Green
Engine/transmission: 2.4 Liter 4 Cylinder 5-Speed Manual transmission
Mileage: 163,000 Miles
I檓 going to list all of the strange things about my car?tell me what you think!
?I understand that this is a 2.4 liter 4 cylinder car, but the cars power is very weak compared to others that I have driven of the same engine. The strange part is?the car seems to be MORE powerful on a full tank of gas rather than on 录 tank, 陆 tank, or even 戮 tank! The car just likes FRESH gas! How bitchy is that?!
?The dome light on the inside: It blows every 3 days. Every time I change the bulb, it blows 3 days later. This has happened 3 times already. I gave up. Flashlight it is!
?The car seems to be losing oil somewhere. I have checked my parking spot, and usually check the parking spot where I park at work. I also have checked my parking spot at my sisters and my grandmother檚 houses. No sign of oil leak anywhere. However, every 2-3 months I end up having to put a quart of oil in the car. STRANGE.
?The car is REALLY good on gas. A trip from Gainesville Fl to Fort Lauderdale Fl (315 miles, 4.5 hours) only uses half a tank of gas! However, when my best friend drives the car, it seems to burn double the amount of gas. We typically have just about the same driving style?I檓 just gonna assume that my car doesn檛 like my best friend. :/
?The gas meter works properly. However, let檚 say there檚 录 tank of gas left?If you remove the gas cap for a minute or so, then cap the tank again, the needle reads that I have a bit more gas than before.
?The radio chooses to turn all the way up or all the way down on its own. Totally randomly too. This is not a stock radio. It is an aftermarket JVC CD/AM/FM radio.
?This car does NOT like the cold weather at all. This is strange because the car has a Canadian engine in it. I assume this because when I had to buy a distributer cap or some other strange thing that goes under the hood, I had to get the Canadian specification of the part. Any who, when the weather is cold outside, I start the car with the clutch. When I let loose the clutch after starting there is a CLUMP noise. This is the ONLY time there is that clumping noise. Also, when the engine is cold, the car is HELL to drive. Shifting gears? Virtually impossible. You have to baby the clutch. Seriously, like an infant clutch or something.
?Remember we talked about how weak the car is in power? When the AC or the Heater is turned on, the car SIGNIFICANTLY looses MORE power. When the car is idle, I have to hold my foot on the gas pedal slightly to keep the engine revving high enough so that it doesn檛 shake really bad. But once again, this is ONLY when the AC or Heater is on.
?I have had the car for almost 2.5 years. The AC works perfect. Never put any Freon. I thought I would have had to by now but it still blows VERY cold and sometime I turn it off and on in increment because it blows so well!
?There is a rumbling noise every time I hit a bump with the rear passenger side of the car. This also happens anytime there is a fat person on the passenger side of the car. I have spent more than 600 dollars troubleshooting this noise but no one can figure it out. New motor mounts, new struts and shocks, muffler checked out, exhaust pipe checked out, etc. No mechanic can seem to figure out the noise.
?Keys. When I insert my key with the logo Up on the key and start the car, I am able to pull the key out o f the ignition. However, when I use the key with the logo facing down, I cannot pull the key out of the transmission unless I turn the car off.
?Toyota Camry檚 are known for their broken door handles, but my car is a bit different. Vengeful if I may. Everytime I fix ONE door, ANOTHER door breaks. When I got the car, one back door didn檛 have a handle. I put a new one on and the OTHER back door handle broke. So I put a new handle on THAT door and the lock on the inside of the OTHER back door broke. So once I had my dad to fix that lock, the outside handle on the OTHER door broke again. I then changed it AGAIN, and now the lock on the other side is broken again. Oh well, forget it!
?I have had this car for 2.5 years and the driver side headlight STILL works. I have changed the passanger side headlight at least 4 times.
?I have never had to change the brake lights.
?I have new battery terminals. However sometimes they still disengage. If the car wont start, just open the door, then slam it. This is JUST ENOUGH force by shaking the car to make the battery terminals connect closely enough again.
Overall I am very satisfied with the car?I mean I put about 22,000 miles on it every year for 2 years in a row and it still rides great with little maintainence...?But its just weird! A VERY WEIRD CAR!My VERY strange car....?
To whom it may concern: What you have here is a Wednesday car, Let me explain the car was Manufactured on Wednesday, which is the best manufacturing day.
All things wednesday are great!
Now: in-spite of the lack of maintenance(which is what is causing all your woes) done on this car, it still refuses too quit,
Each problem can be attributed too a lack of maintenance. So you either spend hundreds too
replace all of your worn out parts, or drive it till it quits.
Try having the timing set to restore some power, also it might be time too replace that timing
belt? Replace every 70K.
Wiring problems are the cause of your light problems.
Your battery cables need to be checked, especially were they connect to the engine?
Clean and tighten all Grounds.
I live in Austin Texas, we have a %26quot;moto%26quot; it's %26quot; Keep Austin Weired%26quot;, I think you should apply this too your car, Keep it Weired.
Stats:
Year: 1993
Make: Toyota
Model: Camry DX
Color: Hunter Green
Engine/transmission: 2.4 Liter 4 Cylinder 5-Speed Manual transmission
Mileage: 163,000 Miles
I檓 going to list all of the strange things about my car?tell me what you think!
?I understand that this is a 2.4 liter 4 cylinder car, but the cars power is very weak compared to others that I have driven of the same engine. The strange part is?the car seems to be MORE powerful on a full tank of gas rather than on 录 tank, 陆 tank, or even 戮 tank! The car just likes FRESH gas! How bitchy is that?!
?The dome light on the inside: It blows every 3 days. Every time I change the bulb, it blows 3 days later. This has happened 3 times already. I gave up. Flashlight it is!
?The car seems to be losing oil somewhere. I have checked my parking spot, and usually check the parking spot where I park at work. I also have checked my parking spot at my sisters and my grandmother檚 houses. No sign of oil leak anywhere. However, every 2-3 months I end up having to put a quart of oil in the car. STRANGE.
?The car is REALLY good on gas. A trip from Gainesville Fl to Fort Lauderdale Fl (315 miles, 4.5 hours) only uses half a tank of gas! However, when my best friend drives the car, it seems to burn double the amount of gas. We typically have just about the same driving style?I檓 just gonna assume that my car doesn檛 like my best friend. :/
?The gas meter works properly. However, let檚 say there檚 录 tank of gas left?If you remove the gas cap for a minute or so, then cap the tank again, the needle reads that I have a bit more gas than before.
?The radio chooses to turn all the way up or all the way down on its own. Totally randomly too. This is not a stock radio. It is an aftermarket JVC CD/AM/FM radio.
?This car does NOT like the cold weather at all. This is strange because the car has a Canadian engine in it. I assume this because when I had to buy a distributer cap or some other strange thing that goes under the hood, I had to get the Canadian specification of the part. Any who, when the weather is cold outside, I start the car with the clutch. When I let loose the clutch after starting there is a CLUMP noise. This is the ONLY time there is that clumping noise. Also, when the engine is cold, the car is HELL to drive. Shifting gears? Virtually impossible. You have to baby the clutch. Seriously, like an infant clutch or something.
?Remember we talked about how weak the car is in power? When the AC or the Heater is turned on, the car SIGNIFICANTLY looses MORE power. When the car is idle, I have to hold my foot on the gas pedal slightly to keep the engine revving high enough so that it doesn檛 shake really bad. But once again, this is ONLY when the AC or Heater is on.
?I have had the car for almost 2.5 years. The AC works perfect. Never put any Freon. I thought I would have had to by now but it still blows VERY cold and sometime I turn it off and on in increment because it blows so well!
?There is a rumbling noise every time I hit a bump with the rear passenger side of the car. This also happens anytime there is a fat person on the passenger side of the car. I have spent more than 600 dollars troubleshooting this noise but no one can figure it out. New motor mounts, new struts and shocks, muffler checked out, exhaust pipe checked out, etc. No mechanic can seem to figure out the noise.
?Keys. When I insert my key with the logo Up on the key and start the car, I am able to pull the key out o f the ignition. However, when I use the key with the logo facing down, I cannot pull the key out of the transmission unless I turn the car off.
?Toyota Camry檚 are known for their broken door handles, but my car is a bit different. Vengeful if I may. Everytime I fix ONE door, ANOTHER door breaks. When I got the car, one back door didn檛 have a handle. I put a new one on and the OTHER back door handle broke. So I put a new handle on THAT door and the lock on the inside of the OTHER back door broke. So once I had my dad to fix that lock, the outside handle on the OTHER door broke again. I then changed it AGAIN, and now the lock on the other side is broken again. Oh well, forget it!
?I have had this car for 2.5 years and the driver side headlight STILL works. I have changed the passanger side headlight at least 4 times.
?I have never had to change the brake lights.
?I have new battery terminals. However sometimes they still disengage. If the car wont start, just open the door, then slam it. This is JUST ENOUGH force by shaking the car to make the battery terminals connect closely enough again.
Overall I am very satisfied with the car?I mean I put about 22,000 miles on it every year for 2 years in a row and it still rides great with little maintainence...?But its just weird! A VERY WEIRD CAR!My VERY strange car....?
To whom it may concern: What you have here is a Wednesday car, Let me explain the car was Manufactured on Wednesday, which is the best manufacturing day.
All things wednesday are great!
Now: in-spite of the lack of maintenance(which is what is causing all your woes) done on this car, it still refuses too quit,
Each problem can be attributed too a lack of maintenance. So you either spend hundreds too
replace all of your worn out parts, or drive it till it quits.
Try having the timing set to restore some power, also it might be time too replace that timing
belt? Replace every 70K.
Wiring problems are the cause of your light problems.
Your battery cables need to be checked, especially were they connect to the engine?
Clean and tighten all Grounds.
I live in Austin Texas, we have a %26quot;moto%26quot; it's %26quot; Keep Austin Weired%26quot;, I think you should apply this too your car, Keep it Weired.
How much should this cost?
I have a 97 monte carlo with a miss in the engine. The miss is caused by a spark plug that needs to be changed. To get to that spark plug you have to remove and replace the motor mounts. How much should this cost at a regular shop. A guy was trying to charge us $263.00 and that is ridiculous if accurate! Please!! help!How much should this cost?
So do it yourself.How much should this cost?
on a monte carlo? really.. hmmm.. mayyybe id have to see it to believe it but if its true then yea 263 sounds fair
So do it yourself.How much should this cost?
on a monte carlo? really.. hmmm.. mayyybe id have to see it to believe it but if its true then yea 263 sounds fair
01 grand am rough and low idle at stop?
when i am at a stop or in park, my car idles pretty rough, and about 100rpm below normal. i have changed the plugs an wires, cleaned the IAC valce, cleaned the Throttle body, Cleaned the Throttle positioning sensor, changed most of the vaccume hoses and inspected others,ive done a torque test for the motor mounts, ive tested the fuel pressure regulator, and changed the fuel filter, brand new battery, ive done practically everything i can think of and the problem still hasnt gone away, i have 85k miles and no service lights or weird sounds...im a little lost on how to find this problem, any help or advice is greatly appreciated, thank you.01 grand am rough and low idle at stop?
The IAC valve most likely needs replacing as the cleaning will not renew worn out parts01 grand am rough and low idle at stop?
I wold check the fuel rail, I had one with the 2.4 engine and found gunk in the rail causing the same problem. Have you done a fuel pressure test? These are also notorious for the vacuum hose at the map sensor to crack causing all kinds of idle issues. Also on the 2.4's the tensioner gets weak and the chain gets loose causing it to retard 1 tooth on the exhaust, the engine will run fine under load and cruising but very rough at idle.
The IAC valve most likely needs replacing as the cleaning will not renew worn out parts01 grand am rough and low idle at stop?
I wold check the fuel rail, I had one with the 2.4 engine and found gunk in the rail causing the same problem. Have you done a fuel pressure test? These are also notorious for the vacuum hose at the map sensor to crack causing all kinds of idle issues. Also on the 2.4's the tensioner gets weak and the chain gets loose causing it to retard 1 tooth on the exhaust, the engine will run fine under load and cruising but very rough at idle.
How much money would it cost for me to put a carb'd 350 engine in my 1996 Firebird?
The original engine is fuel injected, of course. It is the 3.8L V6.
How much would it cost just to rebuild the 3.8 motor to stock specs?
How much would it cost instead to replace the V6 with a mild 350 Chevy engine with, say, 300HP?
Would I need to remove the gas tank to remove the fuel pump?
Would I need to use a different radiator shroud?
Would I be able to just bolt on the 350 engine to the stock auto transmission (I believe it is a 4l60E transmission)?
Would I need to change flexplates?
Would I be able to bolt on any of the accessories from the V6 to the 350, or would I need to purchase all new accessories? By accessories, I mean the PSP, the Alternator, the starter, etc. I know that I would need a new intake, a carb, etc.
What about the motor mounts? Would I require new ones?
How much would the entire job cost to install the 350 Chevy motor into my Firebird?How much money would it cost for me to put a carb%26039;d 350 engine in my 1996 Firebird?
First of all get the carb thing out of your head.
(1) It will make the car worth lees if you try and sell it.
(2) Fuel injection is better on gas, has better throttle response, and can be tuned to give better performance than a carb.
The 3.8 is a 305 missing two cylinders. Any one piece rear main seal small block will bolt to this transmission. You will need to swap the ECM for the one that goes with the V8, you will need a V8 fans shroud, possibly a bigger radiator investigate your car might already have the bigger one in it. You will need the exhaust manifolds and front section of the exhaust for the V8. As far as the accessories go the power steering pump should bolt on, as the alternator, the brackets should be the same but if not get the ones from a fourth gen V8 Camaro or Firebird.How much money would it cost for me to put a carb%26039;d 350 engine in my 1996 Firebird?
You would probably need to talk to at least two different dealers to see what their mechanics would say. Then talk to two or three other independant mechanics to see what they would do about it. The advice of several experts will be worth it.How much money would it cost for me to put a carb%26039;d 350 engine in my 1996 Firebird?
There is a lot that goes into swapping a V8 into a 6cyl car, but it is definately easier on a GM product than anything else.
The cheapest easiest way to go about this, is to find an engine/tranny combo from a scrap yard. Something that wasn't hit in the front so you can use all engine bay accessories.
Your engine accessories should swap over, alt, psp, ect. But it will take a small amount of fabrication and fitting to make it work.
If you are going to pay someone to do all of this for you, It may actually be cheaper to have them install and fuel injected 350 than fixing up an older carbed 350.
It all depends on how you go about getting the parts.
Building the V6 back to original performance is probably going to be near the same cost as a swap.
As for the transmission fitting onto a 350, I can't say for sure, so I won't say anything.
All the way around, its not going to be cheap. It would be cheaper to buy an older car and build that up for performance.
Thankfully there is a lot of aftermarket on your side and everything you want to do is very possible. Just not necessarilly cheap.How much money would it cost for me to put a carb%26039;d 350 engine in my 1996 Firebird?
You will be money ahead by just selling your Firebird and buying one that already has a V8. If you can afford one with an LS1 that'd be ideal but an LT1 is still a great engine too. If you're set on a carb, they make intakes to convert the LS1 and LT1 to carbs.comforter insert dog
How much would it cost just to rebuild the 3.8 motor to stock specs?
How much would it cost instead to replace the V6 with a mild 350 Chevy engine with, say, 300HP?
Would I need to remove the gas tank to remove the fuel pump?
Would I need to use a different radiator shroud?
Would I be able to just bolt on the 350 engine to the stock auto transmission (I believe it is a 4l60E transmission)?
Would I need to change flexplates?
Would I be able to bolt on any of the accessories from the V6 to the 350, or would I need to purchase all new accessories? By accessories, I mean the PSP, the Alternator, the starter, etc. I know that I would need a new intake, a carb, etc.
What about the motor mounts? Would I require new ones?
How much would the entire job cost to install the 350 Chevy motor into my Firebird?How much money would it cost for me to put a carb%26039;d 350 engine in my 1996 Firebird?
First of all get the carb thing out of your head.
(1) It will make the car worth lees if you try and sell it.
(2) Fuel injection is better on gas, has better throttle response, and can be tuned to give better performance than a carb.
The 3.8 is a 305 missing two cylinders. Any one piece rear main seal small block will bolt to this transmission. You will need to swap the ECM for the one that goes with the V8, you will need a V8 fans shroud, possibly a bigger radiator investigate your car might already have the bigger one in it. You will need the exhaust manifolds and front section of the exhaust for the V8. As far as the accessories go the power steering pump should bolt on, as the alternator, the brackets should be the same but if not get the ones from a fourth gen V8 Camaro or Firebird.How much money would it cost for me to put a carb%26039;d 350 engine in my 1996 Firebird?
You would probably need to talk to at least two different dealers to see what their mechanics would say. Then talk to two or three other independant mechanics to see what they would do about it. The advice of several experts will be worth it.How much money would it cost for me to put a carb%26039;d 350 engine in my 1996 Firebird?
There is a lot that goes into swapping a V8 into a 6cyl car, but it is definately easier on a GM product than anything else.
The cheapest easiest way to go about this, is to find an engine/tranny combo from a scrap yard. Something that wasn't hit in the front so you can use all engine bay accessories.
Your engine accessories should swap over, alt, psp, ect. But it will take a small amount of fabrication and fitting to make it work.
If you are going to pay someone to do all of this for you, It may actually be cheaper to have them install and fuel injected 350 than fixing up an older carbed 350.
It all depends on how you go about getting the parts.
Building the V6 back to original performance is probably going to be near the same cost as a swap.
As for the transmission fitting onto a 350, I can't say for sure, so I won't say anything.
All the way around, its not going to be cheap. It would be cheaper to buy an older car and build that up for performance.
Thankfully there is a lot of aftermarket on your side and everything you want to do is very possible. Just not necessarilly cheap.How much money would it cost for me to put a carb%26039;d 350 engine in my 1996 Firebird?
You will be money ahead by just selling your Firebird and buying one that already has a V8. If you can afford one with an LS1 that'd be ideal but an LT1 is still a great engine too. If you're set on a carb, they make intakes to convert the LS1 and LT1 to carbs.
My car shakes uncontrollably when in drive and stopped but not in neutral or when I go.?
My car started getting a small vibration (2003 Ford Zx2) which is now an uncontrollable vibration. It's so bad it shakes the steering wheel and side mirrors. Depending on how the car is angled, it sounds like at times it's under the hood and other times it's in the trunk. The other things I've noticed is it's sometimes hard to put it in reverse. Feels like when I try and shift it, I have to pull harder. Then it makes a small 'clunk' sound when it is fully in reverse. If I'm at stop lights, I will put the car in neutral 'cause the vibration is so loud and uncontrollable. This may be an unrelated thing- but on a few occasions it will go to switch to second and rev but not change. If I take my foot off the gas and then accelerate again it's fine. This is rare though. Maybe once every few weeks. My main concern is the vibration. I took it to one mechanic who said all my motor mounts were bad and then took it to another who said it was a manufacturer defect. That the way the engine was assembled is what causes it and there is nothing I can do to fix it. Now, I don't want to believe that considering the car didn't do it when I first got it. I also- don't want to pay $400 to replace all the motor mounts if that's not the case either. Any help would be appreciated.My car shakes uncontrollably when in drive and stopped but not in neutral or when I go.?
first thing i can think of is motor mounts. it'll make your transmission sit off a little bit. which is why it would be hard to get it into reverse sometimes.
but then again now that you mention the manufacturer defect it makes sense because honestly my friend had an 04 zx3 that did the same thing.
i suggest not buying a ford next time. no offense :pMy car shakes uncontrollably when in drive and stopped but not in neutral or when I go.?
It sounds like your transmission is skippinMy car shakes uncontrollably when in drive and stopped but not in neutral or when I go.?
1. BAD TIRE
2. axel
3. get a new carMy car shakes uncontrollably when in drive and stopped but not in neutral or when I go.?
possible bent axle or bent or broken rim. lug nuts may be loose on wheels. but most likely, its your motor mounts. the sound in rear of car prolly ur exhaust shaking, it is connected to the motor.My car shakes uncontrollably when in drive and stopped but not in neutral or when I go.?
i'm betting on the clutch and/or the transmission, i am assuming you have a standard transmission, and i really hope that you dont drive with you feet over the clutch pedal, because if you do you screwed your clutch making it to dont work when you shift gears, causing the gears to %26quot;clunk%26quot; and the irregular gears now create a vibration, that, however would be because of the clutch
if youi know what it is please mail me brunogarciacano@hotmail.com
first thing i can think of is motor mounts. it'll make your transmission sit off a little bit. which is why it would be hard to get it into reverse sometimes.
but then again now that you mention the manufacturer defect it makes sense because honestly my friend had an 04 zx3 that did the same thing.
i suggest not buying a ford next time. no offense :pMy car shakes uncontrollably when in drive and stopped but not in neutral or when I go.?
It sounds like your transmission is skippinMy car shakes uncontrollably when in drive and stopped but not in neutral or when I go.?
1. BAD TIRE
2. axel
3. get a new carMy car shakes uncontrollably when in drive and stopped but not in neutral or when I go.?
possible bent axle or bent or broken rim. lug nuts may be loose on wheels. but most likely, its your motor mounts. the sound in rear of car prolly ur exhaust shaking, it is connected to the motor.My car shakes uncontrollably when in drive and stopped but not in neutral or when I go.?
i'm betting on the clutch and/or the transmission, i am assuming you have a standard transmission, and i really hope that you dont drive with you feet over the clutch pedal, because if you do you screwed your clutch making it to dont work when you shift gears, causing the gears to %26quot;clunk%26quot; and the irregular gears now create a vibration, that, however would be because of the clutch
if youi know what it is please mail me brunogarciacano@hotmail.com
Ripped off! Man sold me car with mold in it. How do I get it out?
I bought a 1996 toyota camry with 120,000k miles on it for $3200. I had the car 3 months and have already put $700 in maintenance costs into it!.Timing belt, oil change, tranny oil change, belts, tune-up, couple tires etc. The problem is the check engine light just went on and I found out I need a new catallytic converter. It also needs new motor mounts. Then last month I just found out the carpet was moldy in the front passenger side.It was black mold and I cleaned it up.Today I noticed reddish-orange stains on the carpet from where mold used to be? Is that from cleaning product or is that mold coming back again? I had that car check out thoroughly by my mechanic before I bought it. He said everything was good except the timing belt and seals needed to be changed. How could he not know the catylytic converter was bad? How could he not know it needed a tune up? Or bad motor mounts? Maybe the seller didnt know it himself. Cars do break down after 120k. Any suggestions? Should sell it?Ripped off! Man sold me car with mold in it. How do I get it out?
The first thing wrong is you paid $3200 for a 1996 with 120,000 miles on it. You paid to much and must not have checked the car over very well. Let this be a lesson learned and watch what you buy next time. If you watch you can buy a lot more car for a lot less. My friend just showed me his Toyota he bough and only paid $500 for it... was a nice car.
So now you have a choice, sell it (don't expect your money back) junk it or go ahead and repair it. Whatever you do is wrong as you are going to lose.Ripped off! Man sold me car with mold in it. How do I get it out?
keep it .. anything MAJOR comes up ..sell it.. try ebaying it.. the stains are probably from the cleaner or just settle spots from where the mold was.. I'd suggest finding a dealer to ionize your car.. you may want to replace the carpet or any other carpet like surfaces ..check out ebay for cost on carpet or a junkyard that can accomodate on parts ..Ripped off! Man sold me car with mold in it. How do I get it out?
Remember, you only paid $3,500 now! You did not get a new car.. You got a car basically has is! To be honest, you are stuck with it! Unless you can find soneone else to buy it?
Good Luck!Ripped off! Man sold me car with mold in it. How do I get it out?
You got ripped off by your mechanic, not just the seller.
You're going to have to get a complete detailing done on it. They use industrial grade cleaners and it'll kill all the mold. Plus your car will look like new afterwards.
It'll probably cost you $100 - $150 for a complete interior plus exterior detailing.Ripped off! Man sold me car with mold in it. How do I get it out?
Ok so you bought an 11 going on 12 year old car with Average mileage. You cant argue the maintenance costs because they are just that Maintenance and for the Record that is near Book Value for a 1996 Camry you did not get Ripped off. You said the check engine light just went on and now the Catalytic converter has to be replaced meaning the catalytic converter probably JUST failed. There is no way to tell if that part has failed unless you take off the exhaust and inspect the inside (basically Removing and replacing the converter) and no one will do this inspection even as part of a COMPLETE VEHICLE INSPECTION. its like checking the starting system by ripping apart the starter and checking the contacts or the transmission by taking it apart you get it. AS for the orange stains in the passenger side sounds to me like you have a heater core that is leaking and the coolant that is leaking out is old rusted coolant/sludge that is in the core from over the years since you say it is in the passenger side. As for the motor mounts those too could have JUST failed. you had it for 3 months you may just be unlucky that this all has been happening at the same time. What you need to do is have the car checked at a TOYOTA DEALER as they will be the only ones GUARANTEED to know whats going on with the car.
So all in all Fix it dont sell it you have a Camry those are proven to last to 300,000 miles. Your car is fairly old things do break and if it were mine i would fix it and drive it.
Hope this helpsRipped off! Man sold me car with mold in it. How do I get it out?
I agree with Micael G. I bought my 96 Camry with about 160,000 miles on it (now at about 250,000), and yours should go for quite a while longer. One thing I want to add. I recommend you run a Carfax on your VIN number. The stains and mold probably are just a result of a leak in the interior, or maybe a plugged A/C drain, which has been known to cause lots of moisture inside (to put it mildly) but you could also be the victim of a flood car, and that is where the Carfax may help. Even if the title on the car is clean, people have been known to take a salvage car and transfer it back and forth between states until the salvage notation is purposefully or accidentally dropped, and you never know it. Everything else you described is probably normal maintenance for the mileage, and some of it is undetectable, such as the converter. I usually tell my customers that if they will work through the hurdle around this mileage, you will have smooth sailing for a lot more miles.
God Bless!
The first thing wrong is you paid $3200 for a 1996 with 120,000 miles on it. You paid to much and must not have checked the car over very well. Let this be a lesson learned and watch what you buy next time. If you watch you can buy a lot more car for a lot less. My friend just showed me his Toyota he bough and only paid $500 for it... was a nice car.
So now you have a choice, sell it (don't expect your money back) junk it or go ahead and repair it. Whatever you do is wrong as you are going to lose.Ripped off! Man sold me car with mold in it. How do I get it out?
keep it .. anything MAJOR comes up ..sell it.. try ebaying it.. the stains are probably from the cleaner or just settle spots from where the mold was.. I'd suggest finding a dealer to ionize your car.. you may want to replace the carpet or any other carpet like surfaces ..check out ebay for cost on carpet or a junkyard that can accomodate on parts ..Ripped off! Man sold me car with mold in it. How do I get it out?
Remember, you only paid $3,500 now! You did not get a new car.. You got a car basically has is! To be honest, you are stuck with it! Unless you can find soneone else to buy it?
Good Luck!Ripped off! Man sold me car with mold in it. How do I get it out?
You got ripped off by your mechanic, not just the seller.
You're going to have to get a complete detailing done on it. They use industrial grade cleaners and it'll kill all the mold. Plus your car will look like new afterwards.
It'll probably cost you $100 - $150 for a complete interior plus exterior detailing.Ripped off! Man sold me car with mold in it. How do I get it out?
Ok so you bought an 11 going on 12 year old car with Average mileage. You cant argue the maintenance costs because they are just that Maintenance and for the Record that is near Book Value for a 1996 Camry you did not get Ripped off. You said the check engine light just went on and now the Catalytic converter has to be replaced meaning the catalytic converter probably JUST failed. There is no way to tell if that part has failed unless you take off the exhaust and inspect the inside (basically Removing and replacing the converter) and no one will do this inspection even as part of a COMPLETE VEHICLE INSPECTION. its like checking the starting system by ripping apart the starter and checking the contacts or the transmission by taking it apart you get it. AS for the orange stains in the passenger side sounds to me like you have a heater core that is leaking and the coolant that is leaking out is old rusted coolant/sludge that is in the core from over the years since you say it is in the passenger side. As for the motor mounts those too could have JUST failed. you had it for 3 months you may just be unlucky that this all has been happening at the same time. What you need to do is have the car checked at a TOYOTA DEALER as they will be the only ones GUARANTEED to know whats going on with the car.
So all in all Fix it dont sell it you have a Camry those are proven to last to 300,000 miles. Your car is fairly old things do break and if it were mine i would fix it and drive it.
Hope this helpsRipped off! Man sold me car with mold in it. How do I get it out?
I agree with Micael G. I bought my 96 Camry with about 160,000 miles on it (now at about 250,000), and yours should go for quite a while longer. One thing I want to add. I recommend you run a Carfax on your VIN number. The stains and mold probably are just a result of a leak in the interior, or maybe a plugged A/C drain, which has been known to cause lots of moisture inside (to put it mildly) but you could also be the victim of a flood car, and that is where the Carfax may help. Even if the title on the car is clean, people have been known to take a salvage car and transfer it back and forth between states until the salvage notation is purposefully or accidentally dropped, and you never know it. Everything else you described is probably normal maintenance for the mileage, and some of it is undetectable, such as the converter. I usually tell my customers that if they will work through the hurdle around this mileage, you will have smooth sailing for a lot more miles.
God Bless!
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